Alocasias want bright indirect light, an airy mix that dries a little between waterings, warmth, and humidity. They're known for being dramatic: dropping a leaf, sulking after a move, or going dormant in winter. Almost all of that is normal and fixable.
Light
Give them bright, indirect light: near an east window, a few feet back from a south or west window, or under a grow light for 12–14 hours a day. Too little light causes long, floppy stems and small leaves. Harsh direct sun burns the leaves.
Variegated Alocasias (like Bambino Pink or Frydek Variegated) need bright light to keep their color, but the white and pink areas burn faster. Keep them out of direct midday sun.
Using a grow light: Alocasias do very well under a full-spectrum LED on a timer for 12–14 hours a day, about 12–18 inches above the leaves. Keep variegated types closer to 18–24 inches so the pink and white areas don't burn. Bleached or crispy spots mean the light is too close. Stretching means it's too far.
Water
Water thoroughly when the top 1–2 inches of mix are dry, then let all the extra drain out. Never let the pot sit in a saucer of water. Alocasias hate soggy roots, which rot fast.
In winter, or if your plant is dormant, water much less, just enough to keep the mix from going bone dry.
Soil and pot
Use a chunky, fast-draining aroid mix. A good recipe is roughly equal parts orchid bark, perlite and coco coir or peat, with a handful of charcoal or worm castings. Always use a pot with drainage holes. Alocasias like to be a bit snug, so move up only one pot size at a time.
Starting from a plug: pot the whole plug into a 2–3 inch pot with its top level with the mix, or keep it in a plug holder or tray for a few weeks. Don't break the plug apart. Plugs dry out fast, so check them every 2–3 days and water from below.
Humidity and temperature
Aim for 65% humidity or higher, and keep them between 65 and 85°F. Below 60°F, many Alocasias slow down or go dormant. Keep them away from cold drafts, AC vents, and heaters.
Fertilizer
Feed every 2–4 weeks in spring and summer with a balanced fertilizer at half strength. Stop feeding in winter or during dormancy.
Losing leaves is normal
Many Alocasias keep only 3–5 leaves at a time. When a new leaf opens, the oldest one often yellows and dies off. That's normal. Once a leaf is fully yellow, cut it off at the base.
Dormancy: don't throw it out
In fall or winter, or after a big change like shipping or repotting, an Alocasia may drop all its leaves. It's usually not dead. It's resting on its corm, a bulb-like base under the soil.
- Check the corm. If it's firm, the plant is alive.
- Keep it warm, around 70°F or higher, and in bright light.
- Water very lightly, only when the mix is nearly dry.
- Wait. New growth usually appears in a few weeks to a few months, often in spring.
If the corm is soft and mushy, it has rotted. Cut away the soft parts and let it dry before replanting in fresh, barely damp mix.
Pests: watch for spider mites
Spider mites love Alocasias, especially in dry air. Look for fine webbing, tiny dots, or a dull, speckled look on the undersides of leaves.
- Check leaf undersides every time you water.
- Rinse the leaves, tops and undersides, in the shower every few weeks.
- If you find mites, isolate the plant, then spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil every 5–7 days for 3–4 weeks.
- Raising humidity helps prevent them.